The Commercialization of Whitening

Ever since I was a little girl, I remember seeing TV commercials and billboards promoting the idea that fair skin was more desirable. The ones with the promise of providing the “whitening” effect after 7 days of use. Once you buy into the hype, you’ll see another note at the back of the packaging,

“For immediate results use *beep* lotion”

Eventually, you didn’t just buy the soap, you also bought the lotion hoping to achieve the “whitening” effect in less than 7 days.

You’re probably having a hard time pointing out which brand I’m talking about because honestly there are a LOT of brands promoting these ideals where some of them use a wide variety of ingredients associated with achieving the “whitening” effect. And one of the most popular ingredients in recent years is Kojic Acid and Niacinamide. 

Kojic Acid was first discovered and popularized in Japan. Gradually, it expanded to neighboring Asian countries and eventually gained global recognition for its benefits, such as treating hyperpigmentation and offering antifungal properties among others.

You probably noticed that aside from Kojic Acid, many products have Niacinamide plastered all over their packaging, showing it as the “star ingredient” that delivers clarity, the skin-barrier-loving ingredient that treats hyperpigmentation. Therefore, other people see it as a much better, gentler alternative to Kojic Acid and other lightening ingredients out there.

Whilst these two ingredients are praised and amplified in the skincare marketing industry for their individual benefits, like all things from food, drinks, and even fashion style, some users online shared that these ingredients aren’t their cup of tea:

Kojic Acid: The Pros & The Risks

Let’s talk about Kojic Acid. How does it work and why do a lot of people love it?

To further elaborate on the function provided by Health, Kojic Acid basically blocks the activity of the enzyme called tyrosinase which converts tyrosine into melanin which is the pigment responsible for the color of your hair, eyes, and skin. Therefore resulting in the temporary “lightening” effect over time. If a person discontinues using it, melanin production resumes. 

Although Kojic Acid is most popularized and marketed for its brightening function, its benefits don’t stop there. Aside from being offered as an alternative to hydroquinone for lightening dark spots and uneven skin tone, it is also mentioned by City Skin Clinic that Kojic Acid also supports antimicrobial effects (though not as strong as dedicated antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide.) It is also an antifungal, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory ingredient. 

Despite its many benefits, there are drawbacks that made it involved in controversies where general perceptions shifted negatively toward the ingredient such as skin irritation, poor stability, and low effectiveness.

So what are the risks?

One of the most common side effects of kojic acid covered by Healthline are sun sensitivity and contact dermatitis which is a reaction that can be manifested from irritation, itchiness, and redness. Let’s see some of the online users’ mixed reactions toward the ingredient:

Note: For privacy reasons, I covered the username to respect the anonymity of the original poster and any given brand name to focus on the ingredient itself rather than the specific product. This ensures a fair and informative discussion about kojic acid’s effects based on user experiences.

But there came remedies in a study recommending Kojic Acids’s safe and effective concentrations at 1% or less to minimize cytotoxicity while maintaining effectiveness. Scientists have even developed derivatives to make the ingredient more soluble, stable, gentler, and anti-proliferative.

Sounds pretty awesome right? I personally realized that there’s more to it than what companies are trying to market. However, regardless of regulations and safe derivatives, it’s still not an exclusive ingredient made for everyone, especially for sensitive skin types. 

Niacinamide: The Gentler Alternative?

Unlike Kojic Acids’s natural compound origins from fermented fungi, Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin converted from Niacin, an essential nutrient that supports energy production, cell metabolism, brain function, and skin health.

But is Niacinamide really the gentler alternative? Niacinamide has been a star ingredient for years now, especially with the rise of beauty and skincare content creators. Even makeup contains niacinamide. But why do people love it and why is it marketed so much?

Like Kojic Acid, more often than not, Niacinamide’s function has been emphasized by its ability to also brighten your skin tone with formulations being most recommended and already effective at 5%. Although lower percentages of 2-3% are still effective and more suitable for sensitive skin. 

Cleveland Clinic released an in-depth article about the benefits of the ingredient mentioning the various functions of Niacinamide such as:

1. Enhancing the function of your skin’s moisture barrier to prevent transepidermal water loss.
2. Soothes inflammation and irritation due to various skin conditions.
3. Minimizes the appearance of pores by regulating oil production of the skin to prevent clogged pores. 
4. Anti-aging properties that protect the skin from various free radicals such as sun damage and stress.

Despite all these benefits, users usually associate Niacinamide with reducing (acne) breakouts. As mentioned in the previous points, it helps enhance the function of the moisture barrier to hold onto hydration so the skin doesn’t overcompensate with a lot of oil therefore reducing the instances of clogging your pores which can be a breeding ground for active acne. However, it’s not a direct treatment for acne like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.

It’s also definitely comparable when it comes to versatility as it can be paired with a lot of categories of products and is easily compatible with other ingredients. Not only makeup, but it can be found in cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers, and even sunscreens for multifunctional properties. 

Now, what could go wrong with using Niacinamide? Wyndly has released an in-depth explanation regarding the potential risks and side effects of niacinamide, such as mild irritations like redness and itching. While others could suffer more severe side effects such as burning, stinging, and other allergic reactions. 

Let’s see more mixed reactions from online users who’ve used this ingredient:

Note: For privacy reasons, I covered the username to respect the anonymity of the original poster and any given brand name to focus on the ingredient itself rather than the specific product. This ensures a fair and informative discussion about niacinamide’s effects based on user experiences.

Kojic vs. Niacinamide: Which One is Right for You?

No ingredient is truly perfect. You may either suffer from underlying skin conditions that may be triggered by either ingredient, or one ingredient is more compatible with you than the other. Even if that ingredient is known to be “gentle”. 

Take it from some of our Redditors who have experienced both kojic acid and niacinamide, both ingredients might’ve worked for them initially with no issues, but over time there are some factors that might trigger these reactions:

1. Some might have experienced delayed irritation from prolonged usage due to barrier damage (due to other ingredients or products) that leads to increased sensitivity.
2. Reformulation can also come into play. Some brands might reformulate their products by removing or adding ingredients that might not sit well with your skin. Even slight changes can be a drastic factor.
3. External factors such as stress, lifestyle, and weather can have an impact on how your skin reacts even to ingredients you previously tolerated.
4. If you’re using multiple products with many actives, those accumulations might even be overwhelming for your skin.

Given these benefits and risks, here are some recommended ways to protect your skin:

1. Always patch test before fully committing to using a full-sized product. 
2. Rotate your products or take breaks even, especially for the ones that have strong actives.
3. Check for reformulations and see what’s changed.

Some have sworn by either Kojic Acid or Niacinamide for years, but the truth is, our skin- like any organ- changes over time. Ingredients that once worked well may suddenly cause irritation. While it’s great to research alternative options, what works for one person might not work for another. So it’s always a good call to consult a dermatologist if you experience irritation or unexpected reactions.